That is it, already to weeks that I'm back from South Africa and its winelands !
Back to work as well and back to the taste of french wines that strange enough I did'nt miss that much.
Back to Poule au pot and andouillette that I probably missed more.
Back to traffic jam and stuffed parisian tube !
A great experience of three weeks and more than 70 producers tasted gave me a great overall impression of south african vineyards.
It's about the best balanced wines I taste so far among these "New World" producers, and Australia or Chili are no match for the quality around here.
Here is a short sum up :
South Africa do have a great potential but needs to get older virus free vineyards and time to associate soils and areas to grapes.
Mistakes such as overoakiness, concontration caused by late harvest and fruit bomb have to be avoid to progress. Wine Spectator, Rob Parker and Platter's are just humans and not gods.
Blends are the best so far cause by blending you just avoid the youth of your material. Some stunning Bordeaux blend from Stellenbosch and Rhone one from Swartland are already bench mark.
Trade needs to be regulated (WO isn't use at all!)and promoted so that south african wines will be more represented abroad, especially in Europe and States. I believe next year World Cup will also improve thing greatly and exports will burst.
The average price per bottle on export market needs to increased, so that higher end wines will also be available on our shelves.
Pinotage is not yet as good as it should and trial still have to be made to learn more about this hardly understandable varieties. Then it may become South Africa varietal such as Malbec in Argentina or Sauvignon Blanc in new Zealand.
First market should focus with on such varietals as cool climate Sauvignon Blanc, rewarding and decently oaked Chenin Blanc, and seductively charming Cab Sauv from Stellenbosch.
Then in few years time, such grapes as Syrah, Pinotage and perhaps Mourvedre will have the lead.
It all in your hands, and I will be very pleased to come back here, why not for the w
Word Cup !
Cheers.
Benjamin
mardi 1 septembre 2009
dimanche 16 août 2009
Platter's influence
As a frenchman I always tend to be carefull with wine critics starting from letter P. and dealing overseas !
And whereas Robert Parker is yet not coming in South Africa, you have already a quite overwhelming "spiritual guide" : the 2009 purple covered Platter's !
Of course there is always a need for guides that are helping the customer in its choice but when winemakers start to tailor made wines to be five stars Platters something sounds wrong.
Ask the bordelais how they did change their style in the 1990's according to RP's palate. Unfortunetly for them, even today they canno't avoid his ratings ; the 2009 en primeurs campaign is a sign, they released their prices before RP tasted the wines but then, Chateau like Lafite are bending their knees and increase their prices once he scored them !!!!
What a shame and the sign of a fashionnable industry.
So far in South Africa winemakers, at least whom I met, still possess a critical sense and are not followers.
Then of course, Platter's is probably the msot influencal around, followed by the like of Wine Spectator and Decanter.
South Africa's wine industry needs to follow its own path.
Platter's guide itself, is boring, only good marks, ie Four or Five stars, what a rating if all wine are good !
On the other side its good to have it in is pocket to find wineries, restaurants and wine makers names, and taht's it really.
*****
Cheers
Benjamin
And whereas Robert Parker is yet not coming in South Africa, you have already a quite overwhelming "spiritual guide" : the 2009 purple covered Platter's !
Of course there is always a need for guides that are helping the customer in its choice but when winemakers start to tailor made wines to be five stars Platters something sounds wrong.
Ask the bordelais how they did change their style in the 1990's according to RP's palate. Unfortunetly for them, even today they canno't avoid his ratings ; the 2009 en primeurs campaign is a sign, they released their prices before RP tasted the wines but then, Chateau like Lafite are bending their knees and increase their prices once he scored them !!!!
What a shame and the sign of a fashionnable industry.
So far in South Africa winemakers, at least whom I met, still possess a critical sense and are not followers.
Then of course, Platter's is probably the msot influencal around, followed by the like of Wine Spectator and Decanter.
South Africa's wine industry needs to follow its own path.
Platter's guide itself, is boring, only good marks, ie Four or Five stars, what a rating if all wine are good !
On the other side its good to have it in is pocket to find wineries, restaurants and wine makers names, and taht's it really.
*****
Cheers
Benjamin
vendredi 14 août 2009
pinot noir and south africa
Pinot Noir is one of the harder grape to get ripe.
German tends to overoaked it, California to overripe it and France to overpriced it.
South Africa as then a card to play but which one?
At the moment, only Hermanus area is producing some Pinot Noir of any quality, with its cool climate and sea brezees.
Unfortunatly, first plantings with Swiss clone didn't proved to be a good material, so wines have to be replaced and tend now to be young.
Bouchard Finlayson and Hamilton Russell are the two serious producers of the area, but upcoming such as Newton Jonson and Crystallum from Finlayson's son are beaten the track !
Of course, the wines produced tends to lack the balance of european examples and are fuller in style as well due to their location, but there is a clear potential once appropriate soils will be identified, and vines will get older.
Keep focuses on 2005 rich and full style and 2007 for its elegance, avoid 2008 showing thin body and quite high acidity.
Cheers.
Benjamin
German tends to overoaked it, California to overripe it and France to overpriced it.
South Africa as then a card to play but which one?
At the moment, only Hermanus area is producing some Pinot Noir of any quality, with its cool climate and sea brezees.
Unfortunatly, first plantings with Swiss clone didn't proved to be a good material, so wines have to be replaced and tend now to be young.
Bouchard Finlayson and Hamilton Russell are the two serious producers of the area, but upcoming such as Newton Jonson and Crystallum from Finlayson's son are beaten the track !
Of course, the wines produced tends to lack the balance of european examples and are fuller in style as well due to their location, but there is a clear potential once appropriate soils will be identified, and vines will get older.
Keep focuses on 2005 rich and full style and 2007 for its elegance, avoid 2008 showing thin body and quite high acidity.
Cheers.
Benjamin
jeudi 13 août 2009
So better than french !
Wednesday as an interest to wine tourism I did tour the winelands to check on visiting facilities. It is in fact impressive and french have a lot to learn from south african on this point !
When you take Fairview and the marketing genious Black family, every visitor is about to spend for the wine tasting, then for the cheese tasting and is probably gonna purchase a little souvenirs....Disneyland in the Winelands.
KWV in Paarl, more old fashionned and in a desperate attempt to change is labels to find some more market, is also quite well organise and tasting fees of 15R are very affordable, then you can buy a T-shirt or some bottles to take away.
Smaller wineries in Stellenbosch are also very organised, they are most of the time opened from 9 to 5 and are welcoming any visitors. I must say that the charm of a chimney fire when its pouring outside is a treat such as the one in Tokara.
Wine side, one of the master of Cabernet Sauvignon in the country is probably Etienne Le Riche that mastered from bought grapes a amazing elegant, suttle and charming Reserve 2005 that doesn't need to have this eucalyptus aromas that so many show around.
Then, the high security Rupert and Rothschild Winery is very consitant within its range and even if the Classique Cuvée 2007(65CS 35Merlot)has nothing to dream about, the Baron 2005 is really a must. Pencil, earthy character yet restrained and elegant, its for sure one of the best they released since their first vintage in 1998.
To finish with my favourite red grape, Boekenhoutskloof and its marvelous Syrah 2006, silky, blueberry and peperry, my desert island bottle ! The winery is also producing a very limited released of an hectare NLH Semillon 2006, incredebly dense and balanced with some 160 g residual sugar ! only three barrels produced.
Ah yes if you have one Restaurant to do before you die, it must be Terroir in Stellenbosch.
Cheers
Benjamin
When you take Fairview and the marketing genious Black family, every visitor is about to spend for the wine tasting, then for the cheese tasting and is probably gonna purchase a little souvenirs....Disneyland in the Winelands.
KWV in Paarl, more old fashionned and in a desperate attempt to change is labels to find some more market, is also quite well organise and tasting fees of 15R are very affordable, then you can buy a T-shirt or some bottles to take away.
Smaller wineries in Stellenbosch are also very organised, they are most of the time opened from 9 to 5 and are welcoming any visitors. I must say that the charm of a chimney fire when its pouring outside is a treat such as the one in Tokara.
Wine side, one of the master of Cabernet Sauvignon in the country is probably Etienne Le Riche that mastered from bought grapes a amazing elegant, suttle and charming Reserve 2005 that doesn't need to have this eucalyptus aromas that so many show around.
Then, the high security Rupert and Rothschild Winery is very consitant within its range and even if the Classique Cuvée 2007(65CS 35Merlot)has nothing to dream about, the Baron 2005 is really a must. Pencil, earthy character yet restrained and elegant, its for sure one of the best they released since their first vintage in 1998.
To finish with my favourite red grape, Boekenhoutskloof and its marvelous Syrah 2006, silky, blueberry and peperry, my desert island bottle ! The winery is also producing a very limited released of an hectare NLH Semillon 2006, incredebly dense and balanced with some 160 g residual sugar ! only three barrels produced.
Ah yes if you have one Restaurant to do before you die, it must be Terroir in Stellenbosch.
Cheers
Benjamin
mardi 11 août 2009
what about Swartland ?
We had a good overview on Swartland wines today at a trade tasting in Riebeek Castle.
Large area where historically, producers were selling their grapes to larger handling facilities such as Riebeek Cellars, and where now more and more producers decide to bottle themselves.
Unfortunatly not everyone is able to produce good wine from maiden vintage and there are really a gap between the best and the worst.
Swartland is today focuses on Rhone Blend and Syrah in particular but being a syrah specialist doesn’t put you automatically on the world map. In fact to many wines tasted were too ripe to procure any elegance and refinement.
Then a lot of wines are faulty : bret, mould, rot, unclean material….
Howether not everything is black and locomotives such as Eben Sadie and Adi Badenhorst are here to show the way. Surprisingly digest 2006 Columela from syrah and mourvedre is probably one of the best red wine around, but Sequillo is not far behind.
On the white side, Sequillo (bis) is tender and ,harmonious, whereas Roussanne shine throught the Adi Badenhorst white blend.
Another estate to watch is Mullineux with a balanced and sleek white blend aromatically on viognier side and a syrah all leather and peppery.
The last comer is Bernard Mac Coy from Roundstone and an impressive, juicy white blend of Grenache blanc and Chenin.
Endly, Three foxes 2008 from small batchs may give another approach of what Syrah can produce in this country, wonderfull !
Cheers.
Benjamin
Large area where historically, producers were selling their grapes to larger handling facilities such as Riebeek Cellars, and where now more and more producers decide to bottle themselves.
Unfortunatly not everyone is able to produce good wine from maiden vintage and there are really a gap between the best and the worst.
Swartland is today focuses on Rhone Blend and Syrah in particular but being a syrah specialist doesn’t put you automatically on the world map. In fact to many wines tasted were too ripe to procure any elegance and refinement.
Then a lot of wines are faulty : bret, mould, rot, unclean material….
Howether not everything is black and locomotives such as Eben Sadie and Adi Badenhorst are here to show the way. Surprisingly digest 2006 Columela from syrah and mourvedre is probably one of the best red wine around, but Sequillo is not far behind.
On the white side, Sequillo (bis) is tender and ,harmonious, whereas Roussanne shine throught the Adi Badenhorst white blend.
Another estate to watch is Mullineux with a balanced and sleek white blend aromatically on viognier side and a syrah all leather and peppery.
The last comer is Bernard Mac Coy from Roundstone and an impressive, juicy white blend of Grenache blanc and Chenin.
Endly, Three foxes 2008 from small batchs may give another approach of what Syrah can produce in this country, wonderfull !
Cheers.
Benjamin
dimanche 9 août 2009
1659 - Constantia
For who is still using the "new world" term when describing South Africa wine industry, ones should recall that viticulture date back from 1659.
The best way to understand it is to pay a visit to Constantia district, between Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope.
Among the eight estates, Three were part of the old Constantia 900ha property. Klein Constantia is probably the most famous due to its Vin de Constance, recalling of the sweet wine that was produced then.
The grapes use at the time were Pontac, Frontinac and Black Muscat. Unfortunatly, all these grape disappeared with Phyloxera that stroke the vineyards in South Africa in the 1880's.
After decades without production, the first new vintage of Vin de Constance 1986 was released in 1991. Made from Muscat d'Alexandrie, Constantia was back on the map.
And even if an increase in production is forcast in the future, the 2009 taste on the barrem looks very promising.
Another estate of the area, Constantia Glen higher in the Valley is also ùaking is path, and only after its first vintage.
In fact, 2007 has produced two red Bordeaux Blend, one the Saddle the second wine, needs older vines to be balanced, whereas Constantia Glen, the first wine shows already elegance and harmony, character given in this Bordeaux blend by an importnat part of Malbec and Petit Verdot. Their Sauvignon Blanc, yet more classic is also a bargain.
Cheers.
Benjamin.
The best way to understand it is to pay a visit to Constantia district, between Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope.
Among the eight estates, Three were part of the old Constantia 900ha property. Klein Constantia is probably the most famous due to its Vin de Constance, recalling of the sweet wine that was produced then.
The grapes use at the time were Pontac, Frontinac and Black Muscat. Unfortunatly, all these grape disappeared with Phyloxera that stroke the vineyards in South Africa in the 1880's.
After decades without production, the first new vintage of Vin de Constance 1986 was released in 1991. Made from Muscat d'Alexandrie, Constantia was back on the map.
And even if an increase in production is forcast in the future, the 2009 taste on the barrem looks very promising.
Another estate of the area, Constantia Glen higher in the Valley is also ùaking is path, and only after its first vintage.
In fact, 2007 has produced two red Bordeaux Blend, one the Saddle the second wine, needs older vines to be balanced, whereas Constantia Glen, the first wine shows already elegance and harmony, character given in this Bordeaux blend by an importnat part of Malbec and Petit Verdot. Their Sauvignon Blanc, yet more classic is also a bargain.
Cheers.
Benjamin.
Wildebeeste ????
After Kudu, another gamey experience last night in Aubergine Restaurant : Gnou or Wildebeeste, you know the animal that is lion's favorite !
And I must say it is a very good meet, strong character but tender that deserve the best South african Shiraz you can get in hand !!!
But if it seems that I'm just eating here, it's not really true, wine tasting are also part of my daily duty !
Yesterday was the first day of the Hermanus wine Festival held in the Wine Village few kilometers before entering the city.
A tiner yet prettiest than the last week one in Stellenbosch. Maybe to tour the stands with Peter Finlayson helps, but the area of Walker Bay as definitively a very high potential for fresh, balanced and perfumed wines.
Of course, sauvignon has the Lion's share, and some very good examples are produced by Lomond Winery (Sugarbush 2007 and its amazing asparagus aromas!!!) and the quite newly established Ataraxia that as already no more to prove.
To get in touch with balanced chardonnay, apart from Hamilton Russell and Bouchard Finlayson (that will be discussed in another post)you need to go as far as Greyton where Samantha O'Keefe is producing stunning white wine.
On the red wine side apart the overwhelming Cab Sauv, Syrah as a promising spot here. Either in blend with Mourvedre (Newton Johnson 2006) or alone such as the rhone juicy style of Luddite 2005 that comparing to previous vintages starts to find a beautifull finesse and elegance.
So the Hermanus area is really booming, proof is the R320 that go along HR and BF and then go on a mud path few km later incapable so far to follow the rise of new wineries.
Cheers.
Benjamin
And I must say it is a very good meet, strong character but tender that deserve the best South african Shiraz you can get in hand !!!
But if it seems that I'm just eating here, it's not really true, wine tasting are also part of my daily duty !
Yesterday was the first day of the Hermanus wine Festival held in the Wine Village few kilometers before entering the city.
A tiner yet prettiest than the last week one in Stellenbosch. Maybe to tour the stands with Peter Finlayson helps, but the area of Walker Bay as definitively a very high potential for fresh, balanced and perfumed wines.
Of course, sauvignon has the Lion's share, and some very good examples are produced by Lomond Winery (Sugarbush 2007 and its amazing asparagus aromas!!!) and the quite newly established Ataraxia that as already no more to prove.
To get in touch with balanced chardonnay, apart from Hamilton Russell and Bouchard Finlayson (that will be discussed in another post)you need to go as far as Greyton where Samantha O'Keefe is producing stunning white wine.
On the red wine side apart the overwhelming Cab Sauv, Syrah as a promising spot here. Either in blend with Mourvedre (Newton Johnson 2006) or alone such as the rhone juicy style of Luddite 2005 that comparing to previous vintages starts to find a beautifull finesse and elegance.
So the Hermanus area is really booming, proof is the R320 that go along HR and BF and then go on a mud path few km later incapable so far to follow the rise of new wineries.
Cheers.
Benjamin
mardi 4 août 2009
You said Kudu?
As an european I don't get very often in touch with Kudu.
I suppose this breed of antilope is consider as a game, but what a game, very tender and melting in the mouth, and no gamey flavour at all!
Serve with apple puree and a cabbage reduction, this was part of my dinner in Jardines, one of the best restaurant in town, good experience, good service nothing like a gastronomic experience but the all well packed.
The wine list grants a large place to Bordeaux but very little to wine by the glass.
A flabby chenin blanc and an oxidised merlot later the experience was more interesting for food.
Tasting side nothing tremedous today (but I will catch tomorrow !) apart the two whites from Eben Sadie, Sequillo 08 and Palladius 07, both tense and crayist as a Loire Chenin, the latter more influence by wood and viognier content.
Meerlust Merlot 1999, with a splendide evolution, gamey and leathery is auguring the best for tomorrow's visit.
Cheers
Benjamin
I suppose this breed of antilope is consider as a game, but what a game, very tender and melting in the mouth, and no gamey flavour at all!
Serve with apple puree and a cabbage reduction, this was part of my dinner in Jardines, one of the best restaurant in town, good experience, good service nothing like a gastronomic experience but the all well packed.
The wine list grants a large place to Bordeaux but very little to wine by the glass.
A flabby chenin blanc and an oxidised merlot later the experience was more interesting for food.
Tasting side nothing tremedous today (but I will catch tomorrow !) apart the two whites from Eben Sadie, Sequillo 08 and Palladius 07, both tense and crayist as a Loire Chenin, the latter more influence by wood and viognier content.
Meerlust Merlot 1999, with a splendide evolution, gamey and leathery is auguring the best for tomorrow's visit.
Cheers
Benjamin
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